With the reintroduction of the Pasha de Cartier, we also get to welcome two skeleton versions. Especially over the last two decades has La Maison made quite a name for itself with its skeletonized watches in which the bridges of the movement double as numerals. The Pasha holds a unique position here because, unlike all the other skeletonized watches of a more current date, is the Pasha the only one with Arabic numerals. This gives it also a distinctly different character and makes it perhaps even a touch more playful.
The watch is powered by caliber 9624 MC, which comes with a surprise, as it is not, like the majority of Cartier’s skeletonized watches manual wind, but an automatic. La Maison has also started a, less advertised, tradition of only equipping its watches with a round movement with automatic winding. This is why the Pasha has this feature, but in the past also the Clé de Cartier skeleton. While it is automatic, you will have to search for the oscillating weight as Cartier reduced it to the bare minimum, making it from the front side almost invisible.
Cartier introduces the Pasha de Cartier Skeleton in stainless steel with a matching bracelet as well as a grey alligator strap. The first makes it a bonafide sports watch, while the latter shows the more classic and formal side of the Pasha. To get all this in one watch is rare and makes the Pasha de Cartier Skeleton, perhaps even the most tempting offering within the new collection.
A Pasha with a tourbillon is nothing new. Already in the 1990s, did Cartier have a perpetual calendar in this collection fitted with a tourbillon. During the years of the Collection Privee, Cartier Paris (CPCP), the tourbillon became the main star, this time powered by a modified movement based on Girard-Perregaux’s famous tourbillon with three gold bridges. The brand offered it with its famed intertwined C, but also as a slightly more introvert version with its typical square railroad track in the center. It wasn’t during the years of the Fine Watchmaking Collection that additional complications entered the arena again, like with the Pasha de Cartier Tourbillon Chronograph.
It was also during those days that Cartier introduced the Pasha as a skeleton with a flying tourbillon. The new watch that Cartier just introduced can, in my opinion, be seen as a continuation of this model, as both the looks and the specs are so close to each other. The main difference between both versions is that the older one has a slightly more industrial look to it because it lacked a ring around the flying tourbillon, as well as coloring on the bridges. This makes it easier with the current version to tell time to the exact minute and second, but also give it a bit more of a busy appearance. Which one you prefer is more a matter of taste.
The one-millimeter difference in case size, 42mm for the previous version, and 41mm for the current one are negligible, as is the 0.35mm difference in height in favor of the older model. The choice of material might, however, not. For the current version, Cartier opted for pink gold. An excellent choice, in my opinion, as its warm color suits the Pasha so very well and makes it looks beautifully rich. I also think that La Maison will quite quickly add a white gold version of this watch, as well, as I expect that the demand will be there to warrant this.
For those who don’t want to wait for that, they can already get a white gold version, if they don’t mind the 180 brilliant-cut diamonds that cover the crown, bezel, buckle, and skeletonized movement. While I am usually a fan of diamond-set Cartier’s for men, does the setup of this watch make it a bit too feminine for men to wear, unless your personal style comes close to that of Liberace.
With these two new watches has Cartier added a vibe that wasn’t currently available in their collection. While fans of complicated watches probably enjoy the tourbillon version, the time-only skeleton is the watch that we have been waiting for, offering a distinctly different flavor than that of the Santos Skeleton. Yet whatever your preference, both are indeed scary good!