Via social media, I often notice and hear that many collectors come to a moment that, in addition to their existing and beloved collection, they need an excellent watch that can be worn anywhere, without attracting too much attention. The famous ‘Rolex Day-Date’, ‘Cartier Pasha’ or ‘Santos’, the ‘Panerai Luminor’, ‘Omega Speedmaster’, and the ‘Royal Oak’ of ‘Nautilus’ to name a few are the most important watches in collections of many collectors and rightly so! After all most of the timepieces just mentioned are truly iconic. Although you may have some of these marvelous pieces yourself, that have been accompanying you to work and parties for many years, I am sure you sometimes feel the need to have something beautiful, that is just a little more discreet and more under the radar, without being immediately noticed by the waiters in your local pub or restaurant.
Let’s talk about ‘Montre Breguet’!
Abraham-Louis Breguet established Breguet way back in 1775, and his brand was probably one of the first, which has been involved in clocks, pocket watches, and later on wristwatches. This is the brand that we can call the inventor of the Tourbillon and the Maison that designed the well known Breguet hands, that are used frequently by the competition, that nowadays call these hands shameless ‘Pomme hands’. But that aside. Breguet is a brand that, in terms of looks & style, seems unchanged over the years. On purpose I say it seems, because Breguet certainly keeps up with the times, in terms of the latest technology, dimensions, and development. But the familiar image still has remained. Just like some parts of their way of working remained like in the early years. For instance, Breguet never chooses for stamped guilloche dials. Even today every dial is hand-tuned by experienced craftsmen and when you would take a good loupe, you will notice that no dial is alike. For Breguet their archive is holy and many of their current watches are inspired by very early models and even pocket-watches. And that’s exactly what makes the collection so typical Breguet.
Coming back to where I started this write-up; the clearly different watch, that in addition to top quality, must have discretion and elegance, made me dive into the collection of Breguet and immediately being captured by the ‘5140’ from the ‘Classique‘ collection. The round 40mm flat case has an acceptable height of just 10.8 mm, the hand-guilloched dial and blued hands speak immediately and indicate the time very clearly making it readable at a glance. Very attractive looking is the small seconds’ dial, which is placed just off the center, above the numbers 5 and 6. This sub-dial has a different guilloche, which gives the dial a somewhat more playful look. The absence of a date window is a winner and is also what makes this watch very sleek and so smart looking.
The ‘5140’ as shown here has a closed back and a case thickness, as I mentioned, of 10,8 millimeters.
From Semi Dress- to Dress Watch.
Nowadays many people see the ‘5140’ as a dress watch, and the timepiece certainly works well under my cuffed shirt with cufflinks, but to be a real dress-watch, the case should be quite a bit flatter. Breguet saw that too, which is why the model has quietly been changed, a few years ago. The new model, that’s called ‘7147′, now has a glass back and a case height of, mind you, just 5.4 millimeters, making this model an absolute dress watch! This is an incredible reduction in height, especially when you bear in mind that both models share the same automatic movement; the Manufacture Caliber based on the 502.3 by Frederic Piguet, that has a power reserve of 45 hours.
For the freaks, there are more differences, like the renewed sub-dial where the guilloche has turned 45 degrees.
To take style and elegance another step further, Breguet released a truly unique gold bracelet a few years ago, which we don’t see often at dealers, but which is certainly available.
It is a very flexible 13-row link bracelet with a blind closure and without the unnecessary pushers on the side. The bracelet fits perfectly to the case and is made for different lug widths to fit the various models. This is how a gold bracelet should be for a classic watch, fine and elegant links that are very comfortable to wear. The design of the bracelet and the connection to the round case is so chic and almost vintage looking, that it will never communicate the wrong signal.
Obviously, we are quite very fond of the ‘‘7147’ because it is such an all round and masculine watch. But Breguet has so much more to offer, that’s why we are planning to do another write up shortly, and most probably about the ‘7337′, Breguet’s ‘Day Date Moon Phases‘.
For more information and the correct prices, check out the website of Montre Breguet.