1985, the year when the Cartier Pasha was introduced, is a horological year that I will not forget so easily. At that time I was so focussed on Cartier’s smaller dress watches that I looked again and again at the small and chic models, in the windows of the Cartier Boutiques in London and Paris. I found it almost impossible to accept that this bold round 38mm watch in yellow gold, was, in fact, a Cartier creation. In the Eighties, a 38mm watch was quite large. During that first year, not many Pasha’s were produced and for a moment the watch was even sold out in Europe. These very early models are recognizable by a date window, without the cyclops. Around 1986/87 the Pasha became well know and in a fairly short time, it became the watch to have among trendsetters and opinion leaders. At first, mostly men adopted the model, but later on, when ‘men’s watches on ladies wrists’ were the thing to do in the streets of Milan, every self-assured lady embraced the Pasha. Since then the popularity of the Pasha went fast and Cartier released in 1990 the first steel model and in the following years, 36mm, 42mm, and even a 46mm model, as well as small gem-set ladies sizes were added to the collection, as did many complications, like chronographs and tourbillon models. In 2012 the last models arrived in the Boutiques and the Pasha became retired, in order for La Maison to concentrate on other models.
This year the Pasha celebrates its 35th birthday and we were more than happy to learn that Cartier will bring back a completely renewed Pasha line, now in just two new dimensions 35mm and 41mm, both sizes are created for men as well as for women.
And I must say……….. that Pasha in 35mm is calling my name, and maybe even more when the leather strap is attached.
At first sight, it looks as if not much has changed and that’s maybe the best news since there was not thát much to improve. But there are certain differences and good improvements, besides these new dimensions.
From a visual point of view, none of the new 2020 Pasha models has a diving bezel anymore. All models have a smooth bezel, which makes the watch a bit less sporty and gives it certainly more charisma. The quite ugly cyclops that the previous models with date-window had since 1986, has disappeared. Visually these are very welcome improvements.
The powerful four Arabic numerals, that always played a dominant role in the Pasha line, remain unchanged, the strong square minute tracking in the center of the dial, is still there but it has gotten a less dominant design, while the thin lines, indicating every 5 minutes, have disappeared. A huge visual improvement is the blued hands-on all models. Blued hands were only available on the very first ’85 models and were during the second year already changed for the less dominant and more sportive lumina filled hands. The 42mm Pasha, from 2005, however, was created with blued hands and that these hands are now back on the whole line, gives the new watches a more luxurious look.
Technical an important improvement is certainly the resistance to magnetism. The use of non-magnetic nickel components for the movement’s escapement, as well as a shield made of a paramagnetic alloy integrated into the case, allow the automatic 1847 MC caliber to effectively resist the strong magnetic fields, to which a watch can be exposed in everyday life. Think about electronics as your cellular phone, laptop, or iPad, where you work with on a daily basis.
All models are will be sold with a leather strap with the new interchangeable deployant buckle and with the newly designed bracelet.
Changing from one to the other can easily be done, without any tools. Thanks to the Cartier-developed QuickSwitch system. This invisible mechanism blends into the design and is located under the case and is activated by a single push. The Pasha also had the SmartLink system, which allows the bracelet length to be adjusted by anyone without the use of a tool. It is as easy as with the new Santos de Cartier models. Like the new Santos de Cartier, the bracelet of both Pasha models opens with a tiny push-button, hardly visible on the side, and almost underneath the bracelet itself.
One of the sweet key design elements of the Pasha de Cartier watch has always been the chained crown.
In its new version, Cartier added increased refinement, equipping the winding crown, hidden under the fluted crown cover, with a blue spinel on the steel- or a sapphire on the gold models. The winding crown itself is slightly enlarged and gives a much better grip, compared to the original models, which makes the time setting more comfortable.
A new service is the personalization of your timepiece. The boutiques will be set up so they can make a small engraving underneath the link of the crown, on the spot, making the watch really your Pasha!
Next to the watches itself, ‘La Maison’ created a luxurious lacquered wood box, that measures 130x130x105mm to store your timepiece and cufflinks, a black leather, with gold finish travel case, for on the go and a sturdy matching pair of rhodium-plated silver Pasha de Cartier cufflinks. These accessories are sold separately.
All new models besides the Pasha Skeleton and Pasha Skeleton Tourbillon, that we will feature in our next article, are now powered with the automatic Manufacture caliber, the 1847MC that can be inspected through the display back.
This movement, that Cartier is using in various other watches like the Clé, Santos 100 carbon, Santos 2018 and others, has a power reserve of 40 hours. The 1847MC caliber is Cartiers‘ own base automatic caliber, to equip the majority of their collection.
The return of the ‘Pasha de Cartier‘ is a more than welcome addition to ‘La Maison’s’ collection of sports watches. The new features, as for instance the possibility to switch from strap to bracelet in a jiffy and the resistance to magnetism, set the new Pasha models apart from the previous collection.
For €6,250 the 35mm version (reference CRWSPA0013) is yours and the 41mm will set you back €6,800 (reference CRWSPA0009). The models are also available in yellow- or in pink gold.
Available from September, more info will follow at Cartier.com