Just nine months after the launch, the Calibre the Cartier has set itself in the market very well. The mens only watch, with it’s new in house automatic caliber 1904 MC is a conversation piece in all the media.
The watch is so different, for what Cartier used to present, that it was quite a shock when it was launched. For the first time actually, there was a really masculine watch and that has nothing to do with it’s size. Since women do wear 42mm watches as well these days.
A totally new design not leaning on the DNA of Cartier’s famous models as the Santos, Tank or Pasha. When The Pasha was introduced, it was launched as a men’s watch,
but pretty soon the watch was discovered by female clientele as well, probably due to it’s smooth and elegant lines, plus that it was introduced at the time that large watches for ladies became a fashion trend. That will not happen to this new Calibre de Cartier!
The total looks of the watch are so straight and masculine, which is probably the reason,
that the watch was so well received by a new type of customers, the men that never looked at Cartier, men that need a robust but elegant timepiece that works well with their suit and their jeans. My own friends that like my Cartiers, but never paid much attention to the brand, now suddenly talk about the Calibre de Cartier.
The way the crown is constructed, between the huge crown guards, but still with the so famous blue cabochon, is very robust.
I am not a great fan of a central seconds, so I gave the subdial @ 6 on the Calibre, a warm welcome. Cartier does’nt have many watches with a sub dial for the seconds. There is one that comes up in my mind; the CPCP Tortue Minute Repeater f.i., a sub dial for seconds always gives a watch something special IMHO. It’s a small complication we saw already in the Tank Normale collection.
It’s clear that Cartier designed the Calibre case for the long run. As a daily wearer for the office, going out, actually any occasion, but also for those who are into high watch making.
While the automatic Calibre is getting attention everywhere, there are two more calibre de Cartier models that have’nt got the attention yet they deserve.
CALIBRE de CARTIER, CHRONO CENTRAL
A very different chronograph with a case size of 45mm that makes the watch a bit larger than the regular Calibre de Cartier. This Chronograph has a unique central display of functions and double minutes hand, blued steel sword hands and the new double adjustable folding clasp in 18k. The movement is the new in house developed Calibre 9907 MC, a hand winding movement that can be seen thru the glass back.
Water resistance 30m / 100 feet / 3 bar The timepiece is available in pink- and in white gold
CALIBRE de CARTIER, FLYING TOURBILLON GENEVA SEAL
The bold and slightly larger case, (just like the Chrono Central, a hefty 45mm) houses the new in house developed, hand winding caliber 9455MC, a movement wit a power reserve of 50 hours.
It’s clear that the Calibre has a prominent place in the Cartier catalogue and with a case so versatile, I am sure we can expect many more surprises in the future.